The
Buffalo News |
December 19, 2007
By Janice Okun
Experts cook up 'extreme
leftovers'
Local chefs
come up with tempting recipes for all your holiday holdovers
Oh,
the joys of eating a holiday feast. And oh, all the leftovers
that turn up in the fridge the next day. Both are legendary.
To help you with the second half of the equation –
turning out something wonderful with the goodies that remain
– we asked three noted chefs what they would do. We
concentrated on what we thought would be the most abundant
leftovers.
“Suppose,” we said to Janice Schlau of Prosit,
5428 Main St. in Williamsville, “you were faced with
this huge quantity of ham the day after Christmas dinner.
Sure, you could make sandwiches – anyone can do that
– but is there anything a little more interesting
you can suggest to do with it?”
Schlau didn’t hesitate a minute. “I’d
make Ham and Cauliflower Gratin,” she said. “I
haven’t done it for years but it’s a wonderful
dish.” And, she added, “I’d also make
Potato Dumplings with leftover mashed potatoes; people would
probably have those leftover also.”
Mark Weatherbee, chef at the Left Bank, 511 Rhode Island
St., was thrilled that we asked him for a suggestion about
what to do with leftover turkey. “I’m really
not that fond of meat,” he said.
And so he came up with a modification of the traditional
Shepherd’s Pie. But not just any shepherd’s
pie – one with many interesting ingredients added,
as well. “This one has everything in it that might
be left from a holiday feast,” he said as he layered
turkey, stuffing, corn, gravy and even the ever-traditional
Green Bean Casserole in a dish.
Weatherbee suggested a small green salad could accompany
the pie to make the meal complete. “And, he said,
“you’d definitely serve cranberry sauce with
this one.”
Carmelo Raimondi, chef/owner of Carmelo’s, 425 Center
St., Lewiston, thought our question about leftover beef
came right on time.
“I was just thinking about what to do with the leftover
beef in my cooler,” he said. So he came up with a
Ragu to be served over a favorite pasta. “But that
one is so easy,” he said.
And so he added a suggestion for meatballs made from cooked
pork and ham leftovers too.
“People will love comfort food, always,” Raimondi
said, “but I think we’re sort of at a transition
point in the culinary world right now.
“And so I like to add a twist for younger people.”
====== RECIPES ======
Carmelo Raimondi’s Beef Ragu
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 pound cooked roast beef, medium dice
2 ounces pancetta or slab bacon, chopped
3 ounces tomato paste
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Your favorite pasta
Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large heavy bottom
pot and add onion, celery, carrots and garlic; cook until
the vegetables are translucent but not browned, about 5
minutes.
Add the cooked roast beef and pancetta; increase the heat
to high. Brown the meat, stirring often.
Add the tomato paste, milk, wine and thyme and bring to
a boil; reduce heat to medium low and simmer for 45 minutes
to an hour. Season the ragu with salt and pepper; remove
from the heat. Toss your pasta with the ragu and top the
dish with extra virgin olive oil. Makes about 3 cups
Carmelo Raimondi’s Peasant Polpettes (Meatballs)
Meatballs:
8 ounces cooked pork, cubed
8 ounces cooked ham, cubed
2 large egg yolks
3/4 cup seasoned bread crumbs
2 small cloves garlic, smashed
2 tablespoons Italian parsley
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
Salt and pepper
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Place above ingredients in food processor and combine until
all ingredients are incorporated. Take a piece of the meat
mixture about the size of a grape; roll the mixture between
the palms of your hands into a small ball. Repeat with remaining
mixture.
Heat olive oil in a 10- to 12- inch skillet over medium
heat. Place only as many polpettes in the pan as you can
without crowding them and pan-fry until browned and crisp
on one side, about 3 minutes. Flip and cook until the other
side is brown. Remove from the pan with a spatula and place
on prepared plate or towels to drain. Repeat.
Sauce:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
12 ounces porcini mushrooms, wiped clean, stems removed
and sliced
1 1/2 cups tiny frozen peas
1/2 cup vegetable or chicken stock
6 mint leaves
1 1/2 pounds pappardelle pasta
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup chestnuts, chopped
Heat the olive oil in another large skillet over medium
high heat. Add the onion; saute until translucent. Add the
mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and saute for 5 minutes.
Add the peas, toss and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the stock and mint; cook another 5 minutes. Add the
fried polpettes and the chestnuts. Toss well.
Cook the pasta al dente; reserve half a cup of the cooking
liquid, then drain the pasta and stir it into the sauce.
Add the butter, the Parmigiano and a few tablespoons of
the reserved cooking water; heat over low heat. Toss thoroughly
and serve, drizzling with more olive oil if desired. Makes
6 servings.