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The Buffalo News | Sunday April 18, 2004
By Laura E. Winchester, News Staff

Restaurant's new sleek look complements quality of cuisine
Carmelo’s Coat of Arms / Italian entrees with zing
(Out of four)

LEWISTON—Carmelo's Coat of Arms, a longtime presence on Center Street in the village, has transformed its English pub appearance with blood-red walls and faux armament into a sophisticated sleek look that evokes Tuscany.

The dark wood panels and rafters are still there, but brightened by a warm yellow on the walls and large vases of sunflowers, a symbol of Tuscany. Artwork— currently oils by Russian painter Benjamin Z. Shalumov—is for sale and changes periodically.

The new decor is a fine backdrop for what hasn't changed— the top-quality, mostly Italian cuisine created by chef Carmelo Raimondi Jr.—son of the restaurant's late longtime owner Carmelo Sr. Carmelo's mom, Phyllis, makes the rich desserts.

This is a linen-tablecloth-flickering-votive-candles-soft-music place that begs you to sit back and relax. While we encountered no problem getting a table in the restaurant's two cozy rooms on a cold, rainy Tuesday, reservations are a good idea especialy on Fridays and Saturdays and definitely once nearby Artpark opens.

The menu discreetly advises, "Please allow us 30 minutes to prepare your meal." Dont panic. You wont starve before the main course arrives, and the wait is worth it.

In the meantime, you can snack on Carmelo's traditional complimentary spicy blend of olives, celery, onions and peppers and/or slices of warm, crusty bread dipped in seasoned olive oil. Or, choose from several appetizers runnmg from $6 to $9. Carmelo's flat bread with Gorgonzola cheese and carmelized onions topped with fresh thyme ($7) was warm with a delightful odor that slammed into the brain's pleasure center, notifying the stomach something wonderful was on the way. And it could easily feed two, but I wasn't in a sharing mood.

My dining companion, DC for short, opted for the soup of the day, creamy broccoli. It comes in one size, a medium bowl ($5). Great texture and taste, said the DC, as he scraped the spoon around for one last lick.

Then it was on to the house salad: romaine lettuce, flavorful plum tomatoes, feta cheese in balsamic vinegar. And nicely served in chilled shallow bowls. There also are a la carte salads including the 'Tiki," greens with mandarin oranges, cashews, blue cheese and grilled chicken ($2.50). A bit like a meal in itself.

Now came the difficult part: what to have for the main event?

There were nearly a dozen pasta dishes and some nine meat or fish dishes and four specials— more than the total number of tables in the restaurant. Our waitress gave us time to ponder the choices, and when asked, made some knowledgeable suggestions.

It turned into pasta night. Mine was Tuscan tortellini with several large shrimp and scallops swimmmg in a light almond pesto sherry sauce ($19). It was, quite simply, heavenly. And the ultimate tribute is that it tasted ever better straight-from-the-refrigerator cold the next day.

The DC chose a special: seafood lasagna layered with smoked trout, lobster, sun-dried tomatoes and mushrooms in—surprise—a clam and shallot broth ($19). Not usually an adventurer when it comes to food, he said it presented an "ambrosia of tastes." Not being able to quite pinpoint one flavor, we learned it was fresh tarragon.

Fresh herbs are a hallmark of this restaurant, where Carmelo Sr. maintained an herb garden out back.

On another visit, we plan to try the chicken in a coconut curry sauce with sauteed apples and artichoke and spinach ravioli ($16). Or the baked Chilean sea bass ($23)

The portions were large, and we weren't shy about asking for "doggie bags."

Being stuffed, it was only in the interests of a complete review that we shared a dessert. The "Apple Martini" ($5.50) is layers of warm apple pie, vanilla ice cream, and whipped cream served in a martini glass. One quibble. It's a bit messy with bits sliding down the sides.

We would have been perfectly happy with the complimentary biscotti that came with coffee.

Carmelo's Coat of Arts
425 Center St, lewiston (754-2311)

(Out of four)

Favorite dish: Flatbread appetizer
Notable: Foodof excellent quality
Healthy Choice: Baked fish dishes
Price range: $15 to $28 including soup or salad
Service: Prompt
Noiselevel: Low
Wheelchair access: Yes
Parking: On-street parking