estled
into a row of nineteenth century buildings along Center
Street in historic Lewiston liesCarmelo’s, a restaurant
that has evolved over the years from a family-friendly
establishment serving classic cuisine to an intimate eatery
focused on modern interpretations of authentic Italian
food.
The menu is a study in contrasts—both in texture
and taste. Rich and deeply satisfying red wine braised
short-ribs are served with a bright, refreshing gremolata
of minced parsley, lemon zest and toasted pine nuts. Crispy
crostini stand up nicely to soft and earthy chicken livers,
complemented by perfect fennel pickles.
However, Chef Carmelo Raimondi’s ownership of a
stunning restaurant, both visually and culinarily, didn’t
happen overnight.
In 1980, his father purchased this restaurant—a
former fish fry haven— and began serving what Chef
Raimondi calls “American Continental” cuisine.
Ch‰teaubriand, Bananas Foster, and a few Italian
classics were among the favorites. As a youth, Raimondi
helped out—making salads, washing dishes—but
had no intention of entering the family business.
When the time came, he left for college where his mother
would send him care packages, much to the delight of his
roommates and friends who were unfamiliar with the Italian
treats they contained.
While at school, Raimondi’s father passed away suddenly.
The family was forced to make decisions about the business
and it was decided that Carmelo would come home and take
over for awhile. Over time he applied himself, even developing
some signature dishes, but it just wasn’t clicking
for him. “[Culinarily] I was all over the place,”
he tells me. “That’s when I decided to sell
the business.”
However, a future away from the business wasn’t
in the cards. Raimondi never found a buyer and it wasn’t
long before things began to change. First, he hired a
woman server who he quickly developed a special rapport
with. She had studied in Italy, gave him honest feedback,
and felt that he had real talent. He then discovered that
he was entitled to dual citizenship in Italy and decided
to visit, spending time learning about the culinary arts.
“That’s when all of these influences started
hitting me. First traveling to Italy, and then I began
exploring authentic Italian menus in the U.S. At that
time, the chef that was really out there, really doing
it right, was Mario Batali. He wasn’t doing brain
surgery on food and I embraced that. You know what, I
thought, this guy isn’t doing anything that complicated.
He’s taking the best quality ingredients from the
area he lives in, applying the principles of Italy’s
traditions…and he’s working…to make
the best food possible.”
I found that focusing on one culinary style really changed
me. I started to feel more confident. After a few years
I found that I had developed a real love for the food,
and love for this great woman who had supported me, and
the love just started coming.” Eventually Raimondi
married that woman, and the two now have a one-year old
son. “I thought—This feels really good. That
was when I realized that I could really do this.”
And doing it he is. Chef began by making subtle changes
to the menu. “I love to use local produce—whatever
is in season. On my visit to Italy I didn’t want
to sleep, I wanted to absorb everything. I remember I
was on this train, and there wasn’t really anyone
else aboard. I remember looking at the fields of growing
things, things like grapes and vegetables. I came home
and realized I was really jealous that the people in Italy
are eating this great fresh food all the time…I
thought—There’s got to be another way. I’m
going to find out who has the best produce around here.
[Farmer]TomTower used to come in and have a drink at the
bar and talk about his trips to Europe…about how
people in Europe live a slow food lifestyle as opposed
to people in the U.S. who live a fast food lifestyle…so
aftermy visit to Italy I realized I needed to use this
guy. I took a trip down toTom’s farm and saw great,
beautiful produce and fruit and I thought — If I
can use this in the restaurant it will be like, like harmony.”
Today Carmelo’s is an entirely different establishment.
Raimondi imports authentic ingredients directly from Italy,
offering his guests the best experience possible—cured
meats, fine cheeses, oils. He also uses local sources
as much as he can. In addition to produce from Tom Tower’s
farm, the sweet sausage he serves with handmade ricotta
gnocchi comes from The Natural Link on Portage Road, as
do the organic chicken livers featured amongst the menu’s
antipasti.
His wine list differs from many in that it is obviously
not driven by his wine distributor but rather by his own
palate and love of good drink. “Life is too short
to drink bad wine and eat bad food,” says Raimondi
as he shows me his latest find, a delicious bio-dynamic
red, called Apogee, surprisingly made in nearby Lockport.
Made from a blend of grapes, it has good depth and complexity
and complements many of his dishes.
The current menu, available through late spring, features
beautifully prepared entrees augmented by grains and pastas
tossed with pureed roasted seasonal vegetables. “I
like to roast…cauliflower or squash and then puree
it and use it as a sauce for farro or orzo. It’s
so much better than using a cream-based sauce.”
Carmelo’s still serves regulars that have been with
the restaurant since his father was alive, but Raimondi
sees a new breed of client as well. Young and looking
for an adventure as much as a meal, Carmelo’s offers
knowledgeable guests an authentic experience with a menu
that takes risks venerable restaurateurs would think twice
about. The grilled octopus with a salad of ceci beans
and spicy orange citronette is always a winner, as is
the bucatini pasta bolstered by its companions—imported
guanciale (cured pork jowl), lively red chilies and a
spicy tomato sauce.
“This new generation of diners, they’re looking
for…quality and great service,” says Raimondi.
“When you come here, you’re going to be treated
like you’re coming to my house. I love to see peoples’
reaction, to see their face when they love what they’ve
eaten, what I’ve made. Now that’s inspiring.”
________
Christa Glennie Seychew is a former food editor for a
popular Buffalo-based magazine. She is currently involved
in a variety of projects that focus on supporting and
nurturing Buffalo’s bounty in addition to operating
Feed Your Soul, an event production company that creates
once-in-a-lifetime experiences for those who are culinarily
inclined.
425 Center
Street 
